T-CLOCS - Break Down Part 5 - Chassis

The 2nd C in T-ClOCS stands for Chassis

T-CLOCS - Break Down Part 5 - Chassis
T-CLOCS - Break Down Part 5 - Chassis
T-CLOCS - Break Down Part 5 - Chassis
T-CLOCS - Break Down Part 5 - Chassis

Today in our in-depth coverage of T-CLOCS we are covering the 2nd C.   The 2nd C in T-CLOCS stands for Chassis.   The Chassis covers the Frame, Suspension, Drive Train (Chain, belt, or Shaft) and Fasteners.

I know that on my older Harley Davidson I do a quick look over of the Chassis before each ride but sometimes when I wash it I find things I maybe should have found when checking he Chassis.  This time when you may not be able to ride will be a great time to find those missing or loose bolts or clips.  You can get them replaced or tightened before getting back on the road.

Checking the Frame is looking for cracks, rust, and check to see if anything like engine guards, saddlebags, or luggage racks are loose.  Check that everything that should move does move correctly without issue.  This is also time to check bushings to make sure you haven’t lost any or that they are not in bad shape.

The suspension check can be fun.  If you have an air adjustable shock you should check the pressure In that to make sure it is where you need it.  Then you can sit on the bike and bounce to check the socks and push down on the handlebars to check the forks.    Fork Seals going bad is a common issue and is best found early.   If you get fluid leaking when you push down on the forks you have a problem, same if the forks do not come back up after being compressed.

If your bike has a chain drive you will need to make sure it is not too loose or too tight.  That it is aligned on the sprocket correctly and that that sprocket does not have damaged or missing teeth.  Chains need to be lubricated so this is a good time to do that as well. As you are lubricating the chain you need to check for any loose or damaged links.

If your bike has a belt drive you need to inspect the belt for any damage or wear.   Make sure the belt is properly adjusted.   Belts do not need to be lubricated.

If your bike is a shaft drive there is very little need to do on it.   Check that shaft knuckle is not wore out and that there is not any play in shaft but other than that, there is not much else to do.  I will say I did have a shaft knuckle ware out on my Yamaha at about 90,0000 miles and it is a strange feeling when the bike is running but there is no power to back wheel.

Checking Fasteners is something that usually gets missed in your daily pre-ride check and you don’t realize you have lost a bold or nut, or have a loose one until you are cleaning your bike and notice that it is not there or is loose.  Most bikes have some vibration, some more than others and after a few miles that will cause things to work loose.  Lock-Tight is great but it is still a good idea to double check that everything is nice and tight.  

Stay save everyone.

Here are some extras with some good information.

https://msf-usa.org/downloads/T-CLOCS_Inspection_Checklist.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RA6OPG_cFms

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1oht7FSx0M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TNRvgaicRU